The workplace of stone mountain carving needs bright light, protection from wind and rain, heat protection and heat preservation. Large stones can be placed, shelves and some equipment required for stone carving, the stone can be rotated when carving, and vacuum equipment can be installed if possible. If you don't have a house, you can use a hallway or build a makeshift shed. If a plaster statue is carved into a marble statue of the same size, in addition to tools such as pointers, steel chisels, hammers and chopping axes, a small stove, bellows, large and small pliers, whetstones and grinding wheels are required.
Steel chisels, hammers and chopping axes are also important tools for stone carving. According to the needs of carving, prepare chisels of different shapes and sizes, such as thick, thin, long, short, pointed, flat, round, fork, etc. Usually tungsten steel should be welded to the head of the chisel to make it hard and not easy to break. Coarse chisels are generally used for rough stone blanks, flat chisels are used for carving flat surfaces, four-pronged chisels are used for laying out blanks, round chisels are used for carving surface layers, and small chisels are used for carving small parts such as facial features.
Depending on the engraving needs, the hammer can be customized in 0.5 kg or 1 kg and comes with a 30 cm long solid wooden handle. A heavy hammer is good for carving rough blanks, and a light hammer is good for carving surface layers. The hammer is made of medium titanium steel instead of iron. The chopping ax should be made of 0.5kg or 1kg steel, shaped like an axe, with axes at both ends. The ax mouth on both sides is T-shaped, and tungsten steel should be embedded in the ax mouth. With a 30 cm long hardwood handle, it becomes a shredder.
Carved marble statues are usually placed on the ground. Carved heads and busts, for example, had a carved stand on which the marble statues could be placed. Shelves must be made of thicker hardwood. Four feet are required to prevent shaking when carving. The shelf rotates. Plaster heads and busts can be made on sculpture tripods. If you don't have a tripod, you can use furniture. When sculpting the head and chest, the taller parts should not exceed the eye-line, as the eye-line is too high to sculpt.
In order to prevent the carved stones and powder from hurting the eyes, glasses should usually be worn for protection. Production of large statues should be done in stages, but the carved parts should be below eye level, and if really tall, scaffolding should be erected. To carve the head and chest, the chisel is easily dulled, so a small flame guard, bellows, melting equipment, file, whetstone, etc. must be prepared so that the chisel can be processed at any time.
A chisel with "tungsten steel" welded to the head can be restored to sharpness after being processed with a grinding wheel or whetstone without quenching. Generally, steel chisel bits should be quenched frequently, and inexperienced people often turn hard steel into mild steel. The steps of quenching are very simple. First put the steel chisel in the stove to burn red. Once removed, dip the chisel in cold water and remove it from the water to see the color change.
If the white recedes to the head, it means harder but harder. It is brittle and breaks easily; if the yellow recedes to the head, it means the chisel is hard and not easy to break. This is fine; if the chisel turns purple, it is too soft for use. What I have to mention here is that the bars do not harden or harden after quenching. This is common sense, so when quenching, it is necessary to make it hard according to the texture and composition of the steel. This requires continuous exploration through practice.
